Friday, January 1, 2021

American Normal: Of Golden Ages and My Father's Swing Dance Story




Image: Sergey Ivanov, 2020


“One of the sturdiest precepts of the study of human delusion is that every golden age is either past or in the offing. The months preceding the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor offer a rare exception to this axiom. During 1941, in the wake of that outburst of gaudy hopefulness, the World’s Fair…..the economy was experiencing a renewal not only of sensation but of perceptive movement in its limbs, Joe DiMaggio hit safely in fifty-six straight games, and the great big bands reached their suave and ecstatic acme in the hotel ballrooms and moth-lit summer pavilions of America.”—The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Klay.

It may have been in that golden 1941 that one young American, who then would have been twenty years old, might have stood outside the gates of one of those summer pavilions and danced with his friends to the big band sound of the Benny Goodman Orchestra--Sing, Sing, Sing, maybe, or Stompin at the Savoy, or One O’Clock Jump. The sound of which, he would say many years later, would “blow your ears back.”
To be twenty years old is a kind of golden age of its own, suffused with the promise of something momentous in the offing. Out beyond the country’s horizons, dark clouds were forming over Europe; the 20-year old could not have been wholly oblivious. He had at an early age already experienced loss, had already learned the stark lesson that the world you think you know is not permanent. But on that night, I like to imagine that he was (along, perhaps, with the rest of an America closing its eyes to the forbidding horizon) having fun; for now, that would be all that mattered. Whether he’d taught himself or taken lessons I don’t know, but the man knew how to swing dance, the Lindy Hop, or the Collegiate Shag, the Jitterbug, or the Lindy Charleston.
Every story is, in a sense, a conjuring up of a golden age. Let me tell you how it was, back in the day. But the real truth about anyone’s Golden Age, what really happened beneath the scrim that is memory, is liable to be more ambiguous than you or I would wish. The story of the twenty-year old dancing with his friends to the Goodman Orchestra, of what preceded and what followed, is illuminative. It was a life that made a forcible impression on my own. And yet I have to confess there is a lot I have to fill in from scratch or imagination. I only dimly recall him telling me about attending a concert by Goodman’s band, and I don’t know for certain if it was really 1941, or earlier when he was in high school. I don’t know if it was in the nation’s capital, where his family had moved in 1933, or in New York city where he might have travelled for Goodman’s storied concert at the Paramount Theater, or somewhere else.
How little we know about the most exalted moments in the lives of the people who matter most to us. Goodman’s obituary in The New York Times in 1986 described the euphoria among fans of the bandleader, who in 1935 became the King of Swing when his band performed an explosive concert at the Palomar Ballroom in Los Angeles. The stunning roar of that crowd in Hollywood would follow the band throughout the swing era, which lasted into the 1940s. And it greeted the band in March 1937 in New York at what came to be known as the Paramount Theater riot.

Teenagers, who had followed the band on radio and had bought its records but could not afford the prices of such places as the Manhattan Room of the Hotel Pennsylvania, where the band usually played, were lined up around the theater at 6 A.M. to get into the morning show for 35 cents. During that day, more than 21,000 people jammed into the theater to bounce deliriously in the seats or shag in the aisles and battle ushers as they made desperate lunges toward the stage.”

Wherever he might have heard the Goodman band, at whatever theater or moth-lit summer pavilion, I like to imagine, as the Orchestra reaches a crescendo of delirium, the young man and his friends scaling the gates or storming the guarded doors, just like any contemporary music-loving concertgoers. And as a kind of retroactive act of gratitude for the prudent, cautious and retiring example he set for me, I like to envision the young man, my father, Robert Thomas (Bud) Moran, ascending the barrier or breaching the boundary, and then  at the very apex of his personal Golden Age, triumphantly tumbling over or tumbling in, and crashing the joint.
Here is his American story.

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“It’s hard for you to understand what it’s like to be 13 and to lose everything.”


All his years later he might have recalled the brilliance of the lake down below, would recall its azure surface as sheer as onion skin, the sailboats lazy in a summer lull, and the billowed blanket of small green and brown hills around it. Might have recalled it as a vista spread expressly for a child’s imagination, just for him, there up above the sailboats on the big wrap-around porch, lounging in the hammocks with his brothers and sisters. Good or ill, benevolent or otherwise, the world is received by a child as an intention: this is meant for me.


It might have gathered all the sunlight to itself after it was gone, casting a shadow on all his remaining years after, the memory of that childhood with the big old cottage in Skaneateles overlooking the lake, where the family would retreat from Syracuse in the summer. The earliest picture of Bud is of an uncommonly sweet and trusting boy. His father, my grandfather, might have been imposing, intimidating, or he might have been the kind of presence that inspired a sense of safety and assurance. I knew him only briefly before his death in 1965, when I was five, knew him only as an old man with a cane and a penchant for giving overly wet kisses. His obituary in the Washington Post, beneath a headline that read, “John F. Moran Dead, Aid in Depression,” showed him as he was in his prime during that period in the 30s, after the move to Washington, when he was a federal receiver for local banks that had failed after the crash; a photograph that suggested a man whose tombstone might have read: Very Substantial Banker.

Tax records in the town of Skaneateles from 1932 indicate a lakefront home, listed as a “cottage,” was owned by John F. Moran with a total assessed value of $5500.[1] For years through the 1960s and 70s, a pen and ink drawing of the cottage hung in the “recreation room” of our house where I grew up. The drawing suggested a lost life of carefree ease, an impression confirmed by the account left by my father’s brother Richard. My uncle Dick wrote a lively and informative memoir of his own life, published in book form by Richard’s wife for their children, that includes a richly detailed description of the family’s life in Syracuse and their summers at Skaneateles.

Every June, the day after school ended, the family loaded up the car and drove twenty miles to Willow Brook on Skaneateles Lake. This annual odyssey began in 1926 and ended in 1931. The cottage had four bedrooms, a sun porch added by John Moran in 1928, a garage near East Lake Road with a small bedroom for a chauffeur or servant, a bridge over the brook to a grove of large willow trees on the water. Peonies lined the driveway; a small formal garden was in back of the house, a rose trellis at the side door. The brook was about two feet deep maximum. It offered great opportunities for play with toy boats, crabbing and spearing suckers the came into it in early summer to spawn.[2]

To be sure, it was an idyllic period of leisure and fun—anyone’s happy childhood, however mythical. That my grandfather was successful and prosperous is certain and John F. appears to have possessed the determination to rise, to overcome, that is common to the children of immigrants. He was born in Syracuse in 1889. His mother Alice was born in Ireland and likely immigrated to the United States between 1863 and 1883; his father (my father’s grandfather, John J. Moran) was born in New York, but almost certainly to recently arrived immigrants. The father appears to have died or otherwise departed the picture around 1898, and the children were briefly in an orphanage; John F. was in the House of Providence, a boy’s orphanage, while his sisters were in St. Vincent’s Asylum for girls. Their mother Alice remarried, and by 1910 census records indicate John F. and the other children were living with their mother and stepfather.[3]

John F. began working as a bookkeeper in the Crouse Grocery Story, in Syracuse, then as a teller for City Bank. In September 1913, he married Kathryn Handrahan (my grandmother). He rose steadily through the ranks of City Bank to become a member of the board of directors. Robert (Bud), my father, was born in May of 1921.

In late 1929, after the Wall Street Crash, City Bank Trust merged with First Trust to become the largest commercial bank between New York and Buffalo.  At that time, John and his wife Kathryn and children were living on Bellevue Avenue in Syracuse. By 1932, he was a deputy superintendent of banks for the state of New York.2

What happened exactly to my grandfather’s fortunes is unknown. Dick’s autobiography records only that John sold the cottage in Skaneateles in 1932 as the depression was deepening. Sometime after Roosevelt’s election that year, my grandfather took a job in Washington, D.C., within the office of the comptroller in the department of justice—a job that spoke to his resourcefulness and to his connections within the banking world, but which was also invariably a steep step down in salary for the banker and in “lifestyle” (a term that was probably unheard of at the time) for the family.

It’s difficult for you to know what it’s like to be 13 and to lose everything. I might have been 13 myself—that passage of rawness and awkward discovery coupled with an exhilarating sense of one’s purchase on the world—when my father said this to me.  Whether my grandfather really lost everything or whether it was simply my father’s recollection of a dramatic and disorienting shift in his own life and the life of the family, is hard to know. My father’s remark was in any case a singularly dramatic comment by a man never given to drama, reflecting the shock of his impression, one that would never quite leave him, that the ground beneath our feet is never certain.

My grandfather took the job sometime in early 1933 and was acting as a receiver for several failed local banks that year; the family appears to have stayed behind in Syracuse for a period before moving in October 1934 to Virginia where, according to Richard’s autobiography, the family moved into a “large frame house overlooking the Potomac River, the city of Washington and Boeing Field, which later was expanded to become National Airport.” Their sojourn there lasted only two months and in December they moved to Bethesda into “a pleasant two-story brick house on a quiet street in a subdivision known as Battery Park.”  In the summer of 1936, according to my uncle, they would move yet again to a home in the 7000 block of Connecticut Avenue. My father’s parents must have been renters during these early years, for their names do not show up in property records as homeowners until 1940. [4]

And so my father and his family arrived in the nation’s capital and would become Washingtonians.




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        The village of Chevy Chase was designed by a couple of entrepreneurs before the turn of the century as a “home suburb for the nation’s capital,” a bedroom community. A streetcar made its first run in the 1880s, ferrying residents of Chevy Chase into the city, and in the earliest months of the family’s arrival in Bethesda in 1935, it may have been a fun novelty for my father and his siblings, a feature in their social life. But the advent of the personal automobile meant its demise that same year, and by the time of their arrival in Chevy Chase the next year, the streetcar had been replaced by bus lines.

My father was a student at BCC High School, which opened in its current location on East-West Highway in Bethesda in 1935 (the school had existed since 1926 as a two-room building on Wilson Lane). My uncle’s autobiography mentions a young man who had his own car and drove Dick and my father (and perhaps whoever else could pile in) to school, a young man who would become a lifelong friend of my father’s. This boy with the car—that American invention of freedom and mobility—must have been the talk of the campus.

My father. From the Washington 
Post, circa 1935
My father wrote for the high school newspaper and was photographed in the Washington Post having won an award for “columns.” It shows a handsome if still callow looking youth, immaculately well-groomed in the jacket and tie that students were expected to wear—a presentation that was the hallmark of the era that shaped my father and for which I believe he would always be nostalgic. My father was popular and a partier, and it was in this period when he came to love Benny Goodman and the big bands, swing dancing, Fred Astair and Ginger Rodgers. It was the advent of the entertainment era, of “movie stars” and “show biz.” Years later my father’s voluminous album collection would serve as background music to the Sunday afternoons of my childhood when my parents would relax (with cocktails and cigarettes) in the living room—Goodman, Louis Armstrong, Sinatra, Ella Fitzgerald. And mid-century Broadway musicals—Carnival, The King and I, Camelot, Hello Dolly. I am unsure what happened to his album collection; in later years he acquired a small collection of CDs, a portion of which fell to me after his death, and I was slightly surprised to find Billie Holiday among his favorites.

Another, darker strain was also a feature of my father’s adolescence. His younger sister Alice had osteomyelitis, a crippling and painful infection of the bones. Penicillin, discovered in 1928, did not become widely available until after the World War so I am unsure how her condition was treated. Alice was bedridden for a period and I believe I recall my father saying there was a time when she was unable to attend school. He spoke with feeling about her plight which, like the family’s upheaval from their idyll in Syracuse, may have ingrained in him an awareness that in the blueprint of our universe, fairness is given no quarter; he entertained her during her bedridden years reading society news about the stars and starlets of the period. But Alice was feisty and would grow up to become a journalist for Time Magazine. (She wrote the cover story in 1949 for the magazine about Perle Mesta, a Washington socialite and pioneering feminist who had been appointed by President Truman to be ambassador to Luxembourg). Remarkably, in the early 1960s the magazine purged its staff of women, providing my Aunt Alice with an extremely generous compensation on which she retired. (Her husband, Al Goldsmith, covered Capitol Hill for a newsletter he published for the insurance industry.) Alice was a voracious reader and spent her long early retirement consuming books, especially political biographies. When we visited her house, she would have a waist-high stack of books by the sofa she was working her way through. She was a staunch and vocal New Deal Democrat all her life. My father enjoyed baiting her, and one summer night arguing outside on the porch of our house, after a few drinks, Alice became so loud and overheated that my parents became alarmed that she was disturbing the neighbors.  

One other event during this period of my father’s adolescence would make its mark on him, I believe, when his father became a central player (and I believe a hero) in a local bank scandal.

The Park Savings Bank was located at the intersection of Kenyon Street and 14th Street in Mt. Pleasant. It had been opened in 1909, by residents and businessmen of the neighborhood who wanted a regional bank. It closed in March 1933 with liabilities of nearly $4 million. After the Bank Holiday that year, Park Savings did not re-open but fell into federal receivership. On July 17, 1934 the front page of the Washington Post reported that 28 directors of the bank were being sued “by John F. Moran, receiver, in District Supreme Court yesterday in an effort to recoup the huge losses suffered by the bank.”

Charging the directors with ten acts which involved “nonperformance of, malfeasance in the performance of, and the malfeasance of duties imposed by law,” the action listed liabilities of $2,595,991.60 which it alleged were traceable to the directors.

This report appeared on the same day that troops from the National Guard and tanks were sent into the city of San Francisco to quell riots that occurred in the wake of a general strike. Also reported by the Post that day was unrest at a University in Germany by students protesting the Nazi closure of student fraternity organizations; that article also noted that the national leader of a German Catholic youth organization was killed, and “a new attack on Jews was inaugurated by Der Angriff, newspaper of Propaganda Minister Joseph Goebbels.”

In November 1933, seven months before the suit my grandfather filed in court against the bank directors, there had been a move in court by a group of depositors to have my grandfather replaced, presumably by a locally-appointed receiver. Newspaper reports about this episode are not clarifying; it may have represented a difference of opinion about how to proceed in recovering depositors’ money, or it may have been a reflexive distrust of the federal government to act in the best interests of depositors.  The suit by the depositors’ group was dismissed and for the remainder of the 1930s my grandfather proceeded to act in the role of undertaker for the bank and to strive to retrieve depositors’ money.

The scandal appears to have involved a principal actor, a director of the bank named Robert Stunz, and a handful individuals to whom, over a period of years, Stunz made loans with no collateral, using depositors’ money. Somewhere in between the lines of the Post reports there is, I believe, a story about what kind of leverage these individuals may have had over Robert Stunz; the reports are intriguing but raise more questions than they answer. In addition to the wildcat loans, several reports cite “hard liquor supplies” that Stunz purchased with depositors’ money. Shortly after the bank holiday in March 1933, the Post reported that Stunz died by suicide, leaving behind a note accepting blame for the bank’s failure and absolving all other employees of any wrongdoing.

My grandfather’s obituary in 1965 cited four other local failed banks that fell under his receivership. Some 9000 banks failed during the decade of the 1930s, more than 4000 in 1933 alone. The facts surrounding the Park Savings Bank scandal, as well as the attention the local press gave to it, suggest a criminal escapade, something that rose above the standard story of depression era failure; a report in the Post on May 7, 1937, offering one of the clearest summaries of what happened, refers to what auditors and investigators were calling “a conspiracy to embezzle.” Still, the machinations of the bank directors could only have happened in a time when banks were unregulated to a degree that is unimaginable today. Although my grandfather’s part in this saga unfolded during the decade of my father’s adolescence, when the drama of his own life commanded his attention, it can hardly have escaped my father’s notice when his father’s name was appearing occasionally on the front page of the local paper.

On October 20, 1939, a month and half after Hitler’s Germany invaded Poland, the Washington Post reported that the United States Senate was debating lifting an arms embargo to European allies. That story shared the front page that day with the following account that appeared to mark the end of the Park Savings Bank saga: 

“Directors of the Park Savings Bank yesterday paid Receiver John F. Moran $500,000, making a total of $793,000 which will be distributed among 18,000 depositors of the institution before January 1. The directors’ checks were in settlement of half a dozen suits growing out of the failure of the bank in 1933.”

By that time my father was 18. He would go to the University of Maryland and after graduation, after Pearl Harbor, would enlist in the army. He would be swept up in the immense events that were to come, World War and Cold War.

But my father was, first, a Depression-era child, and the events of that period, including his father’s role, occurred at the stage of his life when one is possibly most receptive to the imprint of the larger world. In these two  events—the family’s upheaval and my grandfather’s role in securing the depositors’ money—were illuminated the central themes that formed the lived experience of an entire generation that came of age in the Roosevelt years, the men and women who would fight the world war and later forge the post-war American consensus: the ground beneath your feet might be ever uncertain (you have no idea what it’s like to be 13 and to lose everything), yet the government could use its power to secure the ground, at least minimally, freeing you to flourish as you might. In its best light, the New Deal was in the service of that high American ideal of freedom; you could not ever be truly free if you were forever at the mercy of calamitous circumstance.

Not everyone bought this, to say the least. There was most certainly a vigorous opposition to Roosevelt and to his plain-speaking successor from Missouri. (David McCullough’s epic biography of Truman is consoling, if you need reassurance that poisonous character assassination in American politics is nothing new). My father was a lifelong registered Democrat, and I believe the New Deal was for him formative. But he was by no means an enthusiast, and he was all his life ambivalent, at best, about politicians in general—all of them. (I do not recall him expressing great enthusiasm for any politician with the possible exception, briefly, of Henry Jackson.) In later years, the tumult of American life in the 1960s, would push him rightward. But his family’s experience, his father’s role in the Depression, and his sister’s infirmity, fostered an acute awareness of, and a genuine fellow-feeling for, the regular guy or gal and his or her vulnerability to wanton and outrageous fortune.  
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My father’s sojourn at the University of Maryland was unremarkable; he majored in accounting and joined the Phi Delta Theta fraternity, in whose house he may have lived during his upper-class years. He graduated in 1942.

Life changed for everyone that year in December, and sometime after the attack on Pearl Harbor my father enlisted in the Army. He would be stationed at Ft. Hood in Killeen, Texas.
In the Army
Of his time in the Army my father was memorably sardonic. It was, he said, where he learned a sense of humor. The truth, I think, was that he already had one, and it was what helped him survive apprenticeship in a life—the life of a soldier—for which he did not bring a natural talent. I think he must have appreciated Joseph Heller’s classic account of the absurdity of military life in Catch-22; it was a place, he once memorably told me, where you might be told to go dig a ditch and then ten minutes later be told to fill it back up. You meet the world when you go in the Army, and my father recalled being platooned with guys from all over, guys who grew up in the sticks in Tennessee or Arkansas, guys who couldn’t read or write. My father was sometimes enlisted to write letters home to parents, wives or girlfriends. “Dear Mom, miss you terribly. Food’s horrible, but I’m ok. Try not to worry. Love, Joe.” Something like that. He was discharged in 1946 as a second lieutenant, never having been sent overseas.

One of my father’s best, lifelong friends did see combat. He received a medal for taking out a bunker full of German machine gunners, this friend of his, tossing a hand grenade into the bunker and killing them all. My father said his friend never spoke about this episode and did not want to. His friend confided to him only that it wasn’t heroism, he was terrified. Many years later, with advanced emphysema, this man—the boy in high school at BCC who had his own car, the talk of the campus—would die by suicide, a casualty of alcoholism and depression.

Shortly after his return home to the D.C area, my father would meet my mother—six years his junior—then a student at the University of Maryland and a roommate of my father’s sister Mary. My mother, Ellie, was a fun and lively young woman, a bit of a party girl perhaps, but with cultural and intellectual aspirations as well that she instilled in me and my brothers. She had grown up in Baltimore. She had a knack for friendship and was instantly liked by everyone; the fast group of women friends she made in the Kappa Kappa Gamma sorority—and later with their husbands—would prove the nucleus of my parents’ social lives. Over six decades from the 1950s to the early 2000s, they shared the arrival of children, many University of Maryland Terrapin athletic events, vacations together with all of our families at the eastern shore, the decline and passing of their own parents, as well as a tragedy or two along the way. All of these passages were punctuated by countless high-spirited cocktail parties; these men and women were a sturdy bond of fun and music, camaraderie and celebration that nourished both my parents to the end of their days. 

My father and mother were married in 1953. They settled first in the Glover Park neighborhood of the district. My father had a job as a bookkeeper for a local radio station; later he would become the accountant for Barry Pate Chevrolet, a family owned car dealership located at 1129  Connecticut Avenue, with which my father would be associated, through location and name changes, until his retirement. (At some point in the early or mid-1960s, the dealership merged with Addison Chevrolet and the new Barry Pate and Addison would be located—somewhat fatefully, given late events that would transpire—at Florida and 14th Street.) My father was remarkably reliable; over many years I can count on one hand the number of times he stayed home sick, and he was awake at the breakfast table every day at 6:20 a.m.

To live for long in this most self-important city is to begin to see your life against the backdrop of national and international events. Looking back at the frontpage headlines at the time of my and brothers’ birthdays, two themes are consistent: the emerging and burgeoning civil rights movement here at home, and the confrontation with the Soviet Union. On May 4, 1954 when Michael, my oldest brother, was born, Post reporter Chalmers Roberts topped the front-page headlines that day with a report about the collapsing French adventure in a far-off region few Americans probably gave any thought to—Vietnam. A conference in Geneva was being worked out to “take up the Indochina problem”; the agreement at this conference would divide the country, with fateful results, into a north (supported by the Soviets and the Chinese) and a south supported by the U.S. Just above the fold, Murrey Marder reported that Democrats and Republicans were tussling over the scope of the Army-McCarthy hearings, a sordid televised drama of accusations and counter-accusations, an off-shoot of McCarthy’s red scare investigations; it was during the Army hearing that the Senator would be called out—“have you no shame, sir?”—beginning the end of his prominence. Thirteen days later the U.S. Supreme Court would rule in Brown v. Education that public school segregation was unconstitutional. 
Michael recalls our father taking him, in November 1963, to the showroom of the dealership on Connecticut to watch the funeral motorcade following President Kennedy’s murder in Dallas on its way to St. Matthew’s Cathedral on Rhode Island Avenue. Nine years old at the time, Michael remembers seeing the President’s stricken wife, his brothers, French president Charles De Gaulle, and Ethiopian Emperor Haile Sallesie.

In the December of the following year, when Robert, my next older brother, was born, the Montgomery bus boycott would begin in Alabama. Earlier that year, the Pentagon announced a decision to build inter-continental ballistic missiles armed with nuclear warheads; Congress authorized President Eisenhower to use force to protect the island of Formosa against the People’s Republic of China; and the Soviet Union and seven eastern bloc countries signed the Warsaw Pact. On my birthday on St. Patrick’s Day in 1960, rain was turning an eight inch snow storm into the characteristic DC slush festival; that headline shared  the front page with a story about West German chancellor Konrad Adenaur who was calling for a plebiscite in West Berlin to “demonstrate that its citizens `absolutely reject’ Soviet demands on  their city,” and an article about plans to test a 10,000 pound bomb underground in New Mexico. (Slightly lower on the page was the headline: “Ike Comes Out Publicly for Nixon.” Seems even President Eisenhower was a tad ambivalent about the vice president, a man who would dominate the news for much of my later childhood and adolescence, a man described memorably by the novelist Thomas Mallon as “this darkest of dark horses.”)

To the privileged children of a prosperous kingdom, news of trouble in the kingdom reaches their ears as through a scrim; it sounds bad, but what could it mean? The year 1968 was so brimming over with bad news even an eight-year-old couldn’t miss it. I occasionally helped my brother deliver the Washington Star in my neighborhood in the afternoon and can still recall the shock of that picture of Robert Kennedy lying on the kitchen floor of that hotel in Los Angeles. I had never heard the name Martin Luther King before April 4 of that year; in the aftermath of his murder in Memphis, the District of Columbia experienced the most searing episode in the city’s history, when rioting ravaged large sections in and surrounding the U Street corridor, all the way up to Capitol Hill and in other discrete areas throughout the city. A car was set afire on a lot at Belmont and 14th, the lot belonging to the dealership my father worked for, whose store front was a block south at Florida and 14th. The Evening Star reported broken windows at the dealership, which remained closed during the riot. I recall my father journeying downtown while it was still raging to check on the state of affairs; for whatever reason—perhaps because the business had established a reasonably good relationship with the surrounding community, perhaps because black men and women were employed there—it was spared the kind of comprehensive damage that destroyed other businesses in the area. It would re-open and remain in business for a lean years in the now ravaged neighborhood before relocating. Later that summer I recall attending a Washington Senators baseball game at D.C. stadium with my family when National Guardsmen patrolled the bleachers.

It wasn’t all bad news. My father was an early joining member of the Edgemoor Club in Bethesda, a tennis club that had opened in 1920. A prettier picture you can hardly imagine: a private club “nestled” in a leafy green and well-to-do suburb; its clay courts are expertly manicured and for years has enjoyed a reputation for training some of the top tennis players in the region (including Davis Cup competitors) and for hosting elite competitions.

In fact, it always seemed to me like a pretty friendly and casual place, untouched by country-club stuffiness. But Edgemoor was really my father’s thing; he joined in the 1940s when he returned from the Army. My brothers and I used the pool quite a bit, but tennis never really took with any of us in a big way. For years, my father regularly played two sets of tennis on Sunday morning with a leading staff member for the Senate Foreign Relations Committee, chaired at that time by William Fulbright. (Our mother took us to Methodist church while he played; my father had been raised with an especially dark and forbidding version of Irish Catholicism and as soon as he was of age, he left the Catholic Church—an institution about which he had nothing good to say—and never again darkened the door of a church.)

In 1968 he was president of the club, when the issue of race visited its cozy confines. On November 3, of that year, a report in the Post on page 3 of the A section of the paper was headlined: “Edgemoor Won’t Play `Whites Only’ Tennis.”

 The Edgemoor Club of Bethesda, long regarded as the citadel of Washington area tennis, has decided not to participate in competitions with clubs that refuse to allow Negroes to play. The decision was made by a “decisive majority” of the club’s 300 members at a meeting Tuesday, according to Robert T. Moran, club president. At the same time members also urged the Greater Washington Tennis Association, the Middle Atlantic Lawn Tennis Association and Country Club Amateur Swimming Association to adopt similar stances.

My father was quoted in the article saying Edgemoor “wanted to go on record as disapproving of clubs that were arbitrarily not hosting matches because of the presence of Negroes on visiting teams.” He declined in the article to name those other institutions, but the Post report did. It also noted that the wife of Carl Rowan, then a prominent black columnist with the Evening Star (and later the Post), had joined the Indian Spring Country Club, after which some other area establishments dropped out of the league in which she would have played. (The article said the clubs denied that Mrs. Rowan’s race was the reason for their departure).

Against the larger backdrop of what was happening in the country around race at that time, and of the history of the civil rights movement since its origins in the aftermath of the world war, this declaration by a private suburban enclave was assuredly no revolutionary moment (the article noted that the Edgemoor Club itself had no black members at the time. “There would be nothing preventing a Negro becoming a member should he apply,” my father was quoted in the Post as saying.) But within its own rarified sphere it was influential—the club was described by the Post as the “Forest Hills of Washington tennis”—and I do not doubt my father’s wholehearted support for this position. He was the farthest thing from any kind of activist or social justice warrior, but I think he knew stupid when he saw it. Whatever else the segregationist policies of that era might have been—immoral, unethical, unjust, untrue to our values, and damaging to generations of black people and their families—they were also surpassingly stupid. And the club’s declaration spoke to the momentum of a movement, seven months after the murder of its leader, that was no longer confined to the southern regions of the country.

What my father was (and everything in this narrative stands or falls on this declaration) was decent, a characteristic that has lost ground, at least in the public sphere, to flashier traits. His background made him alive to the petty injustices visited upon everyday people. Closely allied with integrity, decency speaks to a private accountability, a holding of oneself to a standard. The striking thing about decency is that in the everyday lives of everyday people—on the ground, so to speak, where all of the cultural divisions are dissolved in the sober light of prosaic reality—it is everywhere. People like to be decent. In the public sphere—in public office, in public pronouncements, in social media and on cable news shows, and in the online comments section of articles and opinion pieces—no one is accountable to anything at all, a plague of public indecency. 
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The following year in 1969 saw an event that had its genesis in the Cold War confrontation and the arms race,  but which in its culmination transcended the Cold War and became—in the minds of many, and in popular legend—a landmark of American technological wizardry, and human ingenuity and courage.
My family at a Fenwick Island cottage we 
rented, circa 1965.
My family was on vacation in Fenwick Island, Delaware on July 20 that year when two Americans walked on the moon. In prior years we had stayed in rental cottages or in motels in Fenwick or Bethany, but earlier that year my father had bought a rustic old beach cabin, across the street from the beachfront, for the grand sum of $10,000.  It had been built before or shortly after the second world war, surviving a severe storm that had ravaged much of the coastline in 1962. The cottage stood on cinder blocks, its water was pumped from a well in the ground, and the house smelled of pine wood, beach tar, and sea salt. During a storm the house might shake on its rafters and during one particularly nasty off-season gale, it trembled so perilously my parents seriously considered bailing us from the house and finding shelter elsewhere. Over the years it was the source of many happy, prosaic memories: I read To Kill a Mockingbird for the first time while holed up in our cottage, huddled under blankets during an off-season storm. 
The young folks on the beach at Fenwick Island, 
circa 1968-70.
That day of the moon landing we played football on the beach with the children of my parents’ friends, a dozen or so teenagers and a handful of us younger ones. I was nine, a childhood friend from school had joined me and my family for the vacation. I recall looking up from the game and marveling at the moon, already risen in a daytime sky: three men were up there, in a little craft, two of whom would get out and walk around on its surface. It was dreamlike and magical, but then you looked back down and saw your own feet were planted on the earth and your own reality—whatever it was—all around you: a crystal blue ocean, its tide coming in and going out as it had done since the beginning of time, the hot sand, friends and family, a football game, and over the dunes the ramshackle cottages. It made you a little giddy to think of it this way: we had made the leap from down here to up there.

That night our three families—parents, children and their invited friends, assorted others that came together for the event—gathered at the rented cottage of one of our parents’ friends around a staticky black and white television. Larger than the one my father had bought, the house was of the same vintage, one of the oldest standing structures in Fenwick, and it stood just feet from the dunes that separated it from the beach, so that you could hear the waves cascading against the shore a hundred yards away in the darkness. The exit by the astronauts from the lunar module seemed to be delayed interminably; reception on the tiny television was tenuous (when, say, the  wind blew), and I fell asleep on the floor to what seemed like a blur of static and commentary. Someone shook me awake just in time to see Neil Armstrong step off the ladder and onto the moon.

I think sometimes of that summer of the moonshot, when I gazed up from the sand at the moon in a crystal blue sky, as the apex and the end of something. Americans today are nostalgic for a “golden age” and—political slogans aside—almost everyone in this strange and troubled time feels that we have left something behind along the way, that we are off our game. If I could point to a golden age of my own, I guess that summer would be mine. I grieve now for the loss of what feels like an American normal my daughter, now in her twenties, will never know; a country that collectively did great, unimaginable things, that conquered the moon. (It is astounding, for instance, to recall that the moon shot was pulled off using computer systems that would be considered antiquated in any office setting today.)

But I know it must have been only my innocence that was coming to an end, the kind of bubble that is for lucky children to experience. Outside the picture frame of my memories there was, of course, an enormous amount of trouble in that year 1969, although I was only dimly aware of it. (There is, too, an alternative narrative about the moon shot, one that many Americans held to then and might ascribe to now, a story of extravagant sums of money wasted on a technological venture that bore little real tangible benefit for citizens, a lavish expenditure while our inner-city communities were  in turmoil and our cities were in flames.)

I am aware that my narrative describes an impossibly privileged childhood—a private tennis club, a cottage at the beach—and I know that in real terms I was extraordinarily fortunate. All I can tell you though is that it didn’t feel like privilege. My brothers and I attended public school from kindergarten through high school. We did not take vacations in Europe, but drove three hours to the shore, where extravagance was a trip to the boardwalk in Ocean City and ice cream at the Dairy Queen. (We also drove 6 hours the other way, in summers or at Christmas, to rural Ohio to visit my mother’s parents, a journey that always seemed to me an exotic and magical trip to the edge of civilization.) When we went as a family to baseball games we sat in the bleachers. My mother bought my clothes each new school year at discount department stores. The life of my childhood and that of my friends seemed to be a life that was available to every American. Who could blame me for thinking the world, like the Skaneateles of my father’s youth, was a given? I was safe, protected by a kindliness that seemed to pervade everything in a benevolent and fair-minded country that (I was taught to believe) allowed the strong and gifted to flourish while striving to protect the weak and vulnerable. Over the dunes, those modest, ramshackle cottages seemed accessible to just about anyone.

They are gone now, almost all of them, replaced by multimillion-dollar winterized mansions.

As my adolescence progressed, I entered that long, self-absorbed tunnel through which you can only see your parents as tedious, simpleminded and embarrassing. The most minor foible becomes an indictment of their entire way of being; my father sometimes wore so much aftershave it knocked you sideways; we had to tell him to dial it back. I was not above thinking my father should have been something more than he was, accomplished more than he did.

Many years later, when I was myself a father, a friend introduced me to Robert Hayden’s dagger-to-the-heart retrospective on fatherly devotion and adolescent scorn.

“No one ever thanked him,” the poet says of the man who “got up early/and put his clothes on in the blueblack cold/then with cracked hands that ached/from weather in the weekday weather made/banked fires blaze.” 

Too late, the poet is the wiser now.

Speaking indifferently to him

Who had driven out the cold and polished my good shoes as well,

What did I know, What did I know

Of love’s austere and lonely offices?” [4]

What did I know?

That same summer, or perhaps the next, an August night in Washington, the air is torpid and wet with humidity. Summer has dragged on too long, greenery everywhere is limpid, given up, exhausted by the heat, sagging into the streets. The night is close. There’s a party of some kind at the Edgemoor Club and a large crowd is assembled in the clubhouse that separates the pool from the tennis courts. I am here tonight with my mother and my older brother and there is an air of anticipation, although for what I can’t yet know. My mother knows for sure and seems to let on that it will be fun, but she isn’t saying. My brother may have known as well, though he would be as astonished as I was at what was to transpire.

A space is cleared and the assembled crowd falls back to line the walls around the parquet floor. My father is at one end of the floor and a dance partner, a neighbor, a dear friend of my mother’s, is at the other end. There is an announcement and silence falls. My father is striking a curious, anticipatory pose, as is his partner, our neighbor, at the other end. I see my father tapping his foot, counting out a beat.

And then the music begins.
________________



To watch the swing dancers at the Spanish Ballroom in Glen Echo is to realize how some of us come to accommodate our bodies as if it were a jail or small holding cell. For those of us invested almost entirely in words and ideas as a form of expression, the only form, it is to realize what a lonely little island that form is, waving semaphore signals at passing lifeboats in the distance. I came to the Spanish Ballroom because I didn’t think I could adequately describe from memory—aside from my own sense of astonishment watching him—what I saw my father do that on that dance floor fifty years ago. There is nothing lonely about these dancers; they are connected, even when they spin off from each other as I do recall my father and his dance partner doing. That was one thing that stands out from that night—I had  seen my father move about on a tennis court with some dexterity, but out there on the parquet he covered the floor (at least the length and width of one side of a singles court) with an athletic grace and lightning speed that took our breath away. The website for GottaSwing, which hosts dances at the Spanish Ballroom, notes that swing jazz (made famous with white audiences by my father’s favorites, Benny Goodman, Glen Miller, Artie Shaw and others) and the distinctive swing dance—the Lindy Hop—grew out of the Harlem Renaissance in the 1920s; the Lindy Hop drew on elements of ballroom, jazz and tap dancing. You can see that in the dancers at the Ballroom, a seamless mix of precisely choreographed formal dance steps along with a kind of exuberant, carefree improvisation that finds its expression in the feet—think of very young children, utterly unself-conscious, skipping down a street.

To see our parents whole when we are young is impossible. What I saw in my father that night at Edgemoor as he danced was as different from the man I thought I knew—the man who would be there at the breakfast table at 6:20 a.m. as always, the next morning—as a hurricane is from the written description of one. The crowd lining the walls thundered approval when the music stopped, respectful at first of the dancefloor space still buzzing as if with static electricity from the exuberance of the dance. But then we stormed the floor engulfing my father whose white button down shirt was soaked through with perspiration. My mother, I saw, embraced our neighbor, her friend; my mother was not, alas, a dancer and the moment must have been a poignant one for her; but she was celebrating my father’s performance. She had always wanted him to step outside the work-a-day workaholic role that he, like so many fathers of that generation, assumed; it was my mother who made him take a week off work one summer to take some classes at Chautauqua. I forget entirely what I said to my father afterward, stunned as I was, but I seem to recall he was as disavowing as Atticus Finch was when his children were awed to see him shoot a rabid dog in the street.

What did I know, what did I know?

Between that night at the dance and his death many years later in 2007, my father and mother (who worked for the Board of Education in Montgomery County) put me and my brothers through private college (with none of us having to take out a loan). They travelled some, my mother and father, and they partied a lot with their friends. He retired in 1982 and they lived year-round for a short period in Fenwick before moving back to Bethesda.

             Meanwhile the country that had defeated fascism and faced down the

Soviet Union, that had enacted a guaranteed income and publicly funded 

medical care for elders, that had walked on the moon, experienced a cascade of 

dispiriting episodes, their fallout engendering a steady, corrosive rain

of recrimination, cynicism and insincerity: Watergate, Iran-contra, Anita Hill 

and Clarence Thomas, OJ Simpson, the LA riots, the Trial of the Central Park 5, 

Monica Lewinsky.

September 11, 2001. I watched the towers fall just days after I had been laid off from a job, a casualty of the first dot-com boom (when we were all going to become millionaires on websites that had no business plan). There was briefly a revival of purpose, a common sense of the specialness of our country that had been attacked. But it dissipated amid a growing partisan divide, a heartbreaking failure.

Iraq and Katrina.

Today as I write this, we are four weeks into a global pandemic that has shut down the American economy. Amidst an ocean of distress—infected persons dying alone, unable to be visited by family; businesses that will never recover; unemployed individuals with children at home they must home-school—a new crop of American heroes have been discovered, like the husband of my father’s oldest grand-daughter, an emergency department doctor overseeing a unit of COVID-infected individuals in a hospital on the Jersey side of the Lincoln Tunnel. They had been showing up daily at difficult jobs—all those nurses and doctors and hospital staff—exposing themselves to disease and death, long before this. Elsewhere as usual people are finding ways to practice decency in straightened circumstances. A new generation is learning the lesson that the ground beneath our feet is never assuredly secure, and no one knows what the future will look like. My videos of Opening Game at Camden Yards or of the celebration parade for the World Champion Washington Nationals last year—last year! A year otherwise brimming over with dissension and public indecency—seem already like fossil remains of a happier Atlantis we left behind.

What is the American normal, anyway? Where is that promised land?

I think my father might have been able to tell you that there is no golden age, there never has been. There is only the current moment, all that we have. The present is always arduous, the future has always been uncertain. He died in October of his 86th year. In the week or two prior to that morning when my mother found him where he had gotten up in the middle of the night and collapsed, a jazz pianist named John Eaton that my parents admired had come to the retirement community where they lived to play a concert. My father was first in line at the door, and sat in the front row, moving to the music to the end.






[1] For information about John F. Moran’s property in Skaneateles, I am indebted to the work of Beth Battlle, researcher at the Skaneateles Historical Society.
[2] My uncle’s memoir also includes important information about the family’s first years in Washington, D.C., on parts of which this account is based.
3 For all information about the early years of my grandfather, John F. Moran, in Syracuse and the probable roots of his parents, I am indebted to Sarah Kozma, Research Specialist at the Onandaga Historical Association.
[4] I am indebted to Beth Huffner, director of the Archive and Research Center at Chevy Chase Historical Society, for her research of property records for John F. Moran and Kathryn.

Friday, July 24, 2020

At the Fork Between Two Dead Ends: Slim Hope in the Time of Trumpism and the Woke Cancel Phenomenon



"This counter-movement is predictable because the cancel phenomenon is not one that anyone really likes; it is an entirely negative phenomenon, a negative movement: it offers no vision of what should be, only an ever-roving eye for what shouldn’t be, for what must be cancelled. Free speech aside, think about how lame and pointless this little episode involving Pinker is: there are real issues that privileged white people in positions of academic leadership could engage, issues in which black lives really matter, are really at stake—capital punishment, for instance, which is thoroughly racist in practice.

But here they are, these professors of linguistics who live nowhere near areas of urban crime, combing through the social media postings of a colleague looking for impurities."


                                                    *****

In an exceptional column this past weekend in the Washington Post, Matt Bai accomplished something more than another take down of cancel culture—he staked out the territory of belief and politics occupied by people like me who fear we no longer have a home: between the reactionary nationalism of Trump and Trump-ism, and More-Woke-Than-Thou Progressivism, what is an old-style New Deal Democrat to do?

His subject is a recent “furor” created by some academics who want to strip Steven Pinker of his honors within The Linguistic Society of America. Pinker is an intellectual provocateur and has tweeted some “controversial” things about police, urban violence, and related matters.

From Bai: “In one tweet, from 2015, he referred to data suggesting that police might not shoot black citizens disproportionately, compared with the general population. In 2017, he tweeted that the focus on racial disparity might distract from solving the problem of police incompetence.

More recently, again citing research, Pinker had the temerity to suggest that “under-policing” might well be as dangerous to black neighborhoods as “over-policing.” He has also used the terms “urban crime” and “urban violence,” which his incensed brethren denounce as “dogwhistle” terms that reinforce racial stereotypes.”

Along the way, Bai—who worked as a crime reporter in his early days—acknowledges his sympathy for the importance of policing to minority communities, and scores some first-rate parenthetical shade when he notes that “urban crime” neighborhoods are conspicuous for the scarcity of linguistic professors.

(As an aside, I once tried my hand at an essay, long since vanished into the ether, seeking to refute Pinker on the subject of genetics and the influence of environment in child-rearing. It was emblematic, I think, of Pinker to fall on the side of genetic determinism. I was reaching well beyond my level of competence to pretend to argue about genetics, though I think it is safe to say that the ancient debate about “nature-nurture” has only been made more complicated and interesting—not simpler—by the revolution in genomics; and I will add that the durability of this belief, call it a wish, that humans are determined, is a subject all to itself. Why do we want so badly to be relieved of the responsibility for our actions, for the environments we create for children and others? Why do we want to give up so easily on the possibility of change?)

But Bai’s concern is less with Pinker—with whom Bai admits to being only “glancingly familiar”—than with how to think about and respond to the purity tests being administered by elite thinkers against others.

What struck me most, reading about the coordinated attack on his integrity, is something Pinker said in his own defense. “I have a mind-set that the world is a complex place we are trying to understand,” he said. “There is an inherent value to free speech, because no one knows the solution to problems a priori.”
That’s such a familiar sentiment, I thought. Where have I heard it before?
And then I remembered: Oh, right, it’s what we used to call liberalism.

Whatever this thing is that stands opposite to the “mind-set” described by Pinker—whether you call it cancel culture or woke progressivism; Bai calls it the “cultural left”—it isn’t the center-left liberal consensus that built the post-World War II America those of us over the age of 50 inherited. (The America, by the way, that most MAGA people, whether they know it or not, are harkening back to when they talk about making it great again. You want the 1950s? Great—that was when a Republican administration built the interstate highway system, a massive public works program funded by our parents’ tax dollars. And everyone—everyone—was on board. A subject for another day.)

I am of two minds about the durability of this new thing, the cultural left, the cancel phenomenon. To be sure, social media gives it an insidious staying power. But it is also, fundamentally, a form of bullying and like all bullying—like all bullies—it is easily shut down when people simply decide to stand up to it. And this is now happening, predictably, in all sorts of ways. There is the letter that appeared in Harpers, signed by notable figures on the left (including Noam Chomsky, no less), and later the resignation of Bari Weiss from the New York Times.

Also very hopeful for this slightly-left-of-center man without a country is the return of Andrew Sullivan to The Dish, writing in his last column that he was no longer welcome at New York Magazine and Vox. Like Christopher Hitchens (with whom he was bosom friends) Sullivan plays for no team, and the team he spurned day-after-day during the first incarnation of The Dish is contemporary American conservativism. Sullivan saw it all coming before anyone else, saw that it was American conservativism that had gone off the grid. Very often he seemed to be jumping up and down, screaming at the top of his lungs, trying to get others to see.

If he comes back now principally to be a scourge of woke cancel culture—well, let no one pretend to be surprised.

This counter-movement is predictable because the cancel phenomenon is not one that anyone really likes; it is an entirely negative phenomenon, a negative movement: it offers no vision of what should be, only an ever-roving eye for what shouldn’t be, for what must be cancelled. Free speech aside, think about how lame and pointless this little episode involving Pinker is: there are real issues that privileged white people in positions of academic leadership could engage, issues in which black lives really matter, are really at stake—capital punishment, for instance, which is thoroughly racist in practice.

But here they are, these professors of linguistics who live nowhere near areas of urban crime, combing through the social media postings of a colleague looking for impurities.

I should resist making too much of these counter movements, which have already been through the digital wringer of skepticism, second-guessing, and snide dismissal. The woke cultural left is deeply entrenched in academia and journalism. And Trump-ism—which is an existential threat to the American project—both feeds the movement and feeds on it.

We are in a dark, dark place.

But I am going to choose to be sanguine and hope, precisely because the moment is so dark, and so many people are scared and worried. Americans despise the woke cancel movement (even if none of them chair departments of history at the nation’s colleges); there is a potent movement of conservatives who are sickened by Trump (even if none of them hold office in Congress, where it’s spineless careerism all down the line).


Is it possible to hope that the really creative potential of our current moment is the recreation of the center? 

(Image: Aquir/shutterstock.com)


Saturday, February 8, 2020

Wrong End of a Telescope: Jigsaw Puzzle, Bonsai Tree, Walking Companion


I have a feeling for chaos, and it is not an entirely bad one. In the very beginning, you start with what works, with what fits, and you cannot help but make progress. If you are rebuilding, just start anywhere and you are making an improvement by 100 percent.

This isn’t entirely different from how I felt when I opened the box to a 1,000-piece jigsaw puzzle, a reproduction of an illustration by Michael Storrings called “Springtime on 5th Avenue in New York.” I guess you would call it impressionistic, since perspective and realistic proportion give way to the dominant scheme, which is color—bright yellow taxis, buildings pale blue and pink and slate, lush green trees in the park, flower beds of red and pink and blue—and the impression of busyness: traffic, buildings, storefronts, and smart looking people walking smart looking dogs.

I had been toying with the idea for a while. I had only recently moved into a new apartment and I had an idea in my head of what I wanted my new place to be like, and this idea included a table where there would always be a jigsaw puzzle in progress. It’s something I remember from childhood summer vacations with family when a puzzle would be started and serve as the nighttime project; I seem to recall it as well from visits to my grandparents’ house where there was always a puzzle in progress.

I moved from a small squat building with 12 units in it, moved across the river from Northern Virginia, where I had come three years ago after 16 years of living in Cleveland, into a building along a main corridor of the District of Columbia with more than 500 dwellings. My move over here, back into the city I had lived in as a younger man, happened quickly and although it was a good move, a happy one, the move itself was unsettling in a very specific way: here I was, 58 years old, moving from a one-bedroom apartment to another one-bedroom apartment, and I could pack all my belongings into a 10-foot U-Haul. (The same belongings I had carted from Cleveland two years before.) I had managed to put down, after all this time, no roots at all. I had helped to raise a child, now a beautiful, self-reliant and resilient young woman—and I can go my grave knowing I had done at least this one important thing reasonably well. But the move across the river, into this great cavernous building, seemed to impress upon me my solitariness, and more than that, a palpable lightness of my being in the world.

So, starting a 1000-piece jigsaw puzzle also possessed a certain metaphorical aptness. There’s a process to it and the first step—finding the straight edges that form the border of your puzzle—forces itself on you because, well, what else is there to do? Where else can you start but the edges of this small-scale model of reality you are trying to conjure from chaos? It turns out to be a chore to do this, and right away what had seemed quaint and cozy now made itself known to me as a project, one that would likely occupy me for weeks or months. Just finding the straight edge pieces is work; they have to be segregated from the rest of the puzzle before you can even think about piecing them together.

But as I say, any progress at all is a kind of perfect progress when you are starting from a state of chaos. Before you know it, you have a corner piece, and the beginnings of one side of the border, the windows of the building in that upper right corner of Storrings’ imaginative rendering start to form themselves. It becomes a practical form of meditation on the way things, all things, are accomplished, always—a kind of yoga practice in patience, incrementalism, the long view, starting somewhere and building on a foundation, and the manifest truth that with every choice, you create a very particular shape to your future.

XXXXXXXXXX

Call it an exercise in building from the edges, starting somewhere, when I formed the idea of soliciting some companions from the building to go walking with me in the morning. I printed up a couple of flyers which I tacked up in the laundry and mail rooms of our building, stating that I had formed the habit of heading out at 5:30 or 6:00 in the morning to go walking in the neighborhood. (This was in fact more aspirational than true—the bit about waking so early—but I figured if someone would take me up on the challenge it would be motivation for both of us.) Would someone care to join me? We could meet in the lobby, walk for an hour on some predetermined path in the neighborhoods behind our building, then finish at the local bakery for coffee and bagels, and be on our way. Perhaps, I wrote on my hopeful flyer, we could start a little walking club.

I believe I am being reasonably honest when I say that I had no particular expectations regarding who might become my walking companion in this venture. There are a lot of older folks in the building and I think I envisioned a retired couple, of the 70-is-the-new-50 variety, still vigorous and open to an adventure.

In fact, for several weeks no one at all responded, and I was prepared to take my flyers down when someone finally texted me, late in the day on a Saturday, saying they would be pleased to go walking with me that afternoon. The communicant left a name at the end of the message that was entirely opaque to me: it was no American name I had ever heard, but it was unclear what nationality it might represent; neither could I be certain whether it was a male or a female.

In any case I was wholly unprepared for the still-young-ish woman, perhaps early 40s, who met me at the elevator. She had large, luminous almond-shaped eyes set within an oval face of an immaculately clear, brown skin, framed by a hijab, a sky-blue silken headscarf that fit tightly over her head, forming a sharp line just above those eyes, and that fell in delicate waves upon her shoulders. I pretended to be unsurprised. We greeted each other with the getting-to-know-you introductory pleasantries of two people meeting on a blind date, then headed for the lobby doors. We agreed that we would walk down to the metro stop in the next neighborhood and back, a distance all together of a mile and a half.

All down the avenue my companion kept up a stream of amiable chatter. The native of a near middle eastern country, she worked at that country’s embassy and had three children ranging in age from 9 to 15—a fact she imparted with the ironic weariness of over-taxed soccer moms everywhere: she needed to get out of the apartment and get some air. Her husband worked as a librarian at one of the local universities.

(Here I should stop to say that during our stroll down the avenue, and over the few brief but memorable times would we would meet again, my companion attained a brilliant singularity of personhood that deserves to be named. But for a variety of reasons, not least because she hasn’t given me license to write about our encounter, I feel bound to protect her anonymity. I will call her K.)

She was charming, humorous and politely inquisitive about my life, and we were not 25 yards from the building when I felt at once entirely at ease with her, yet also in a state of heightened self-consciousness—charmed, as it were, out of myself by what I regarded as the strangeness of this encounter: a married, Arab woman in a headscarf had opted to go for a walk with a man she did not know.

In relating the facts of my life, it seemed impossible not to mention what was to me most salient—in what now seems like a previous lifetime, I was married and although the marriage did not last long, we had a daughter, now in her third year of college. The trauma of our divorce had long since faded and here in America, where close to half of all marriages ends in divorce, I had long ago ceased to think of it as any kind of scarlet letter. But now this fact, as I shared it with my companion took on an unaccustomed weight. What would she think? In a similar way, she inquired about whether I had ever been to her country (I had not) and where I had travelled in the world. By the standards of cosmopolitan Washington, I have not travelled widely at all, but a place I have been that was most memorable is the State of Israel, and this fact, like my banal divorce, suddenly became alive with nuance.

That my companion was articulate and educated was obvious, and I take it as a matter of course that people will swallow all manner of prejudices and strong beliefs in the interest of getting along when you are taking a walk down the avenue on a summer afternoon. So I didn’t seriously think that my tame revelations would upset our casual encounter. What I am talking about are the prejudices and assumptions that Americans have learned in the last two fraught decades to project upon Arabs of the Islamic faith. For a fact that made itself palpable as I was walked with her is that I had never before spoken so much as two words of an intentional conversation with a religious Muslim, or of any kind of conversation with a Muslim female. And now I was strolling with a married woman in a headscarf, one who was lively and funny and ironic, and she was charming me out of my skin.

Well, I was lonely, she had answered my ad, and I wanted her to approve of me. I suppose it is noteworthy that when were about halfway to where we had agreed to turn around, her phone rang. She answered in her native language and I was not surprised when she turned to me and said, “My husband says hello.” I returned the greeting. Then in English, she said into the phone, “Mark says hello.” They reverted to their native language to close out the conversation.

As we headed back, I asked her if she had family in her native country and if she returned there ever. She told me the last time was several years ago, and it had cost her and her husband nearly $40,000 in total. “My husband and I have dozens of family members there, and it is expected that you bring every one of them a gift from America,” she told me. “They think because we are in America that we are extremely wealthy. They don’t know that we are living paycheck to paycheck like everyone else.”

If I had been feeling slightly out of my own body up to then, the feeling became amplified when K. surprised me by saying she would like to treat me to a native dish from her country, something simple she would bring up to my apartment sometime. This struck me as an offer so gracious and unexpected that I had no idea how to respond, and I mumbled something barely coherent in response.

We talked about the building we shared, and K. said there were holiday parties and get-togethers in the lobby from time to time. “We also have a laughing group that meets on Tuesday nights in the mail room,” she said. “It’s a small group, two or three women other than me and an old man who shows up on his own.”

I’d heard about this, I knew this had become a thing—laughing yoga it is sometimes called—and I relished the thought of this small group, including my head-scarfed friend, laughing together in the mail room. “You should join us,” she said. “We get together and do some easy stretches. Then we make laughing sounds.”

It was hot that afternoon and by the time we returned to our building I was perspiring. K seemed hardly to have broken a sweat. She was wearing loose fitting, immaculately white slacks and a blouse or tunic of some muted color with a pretty fringe around her neckline, both of which were of the same material as the silken headscarf. She seemed impervious to the steamy heat of the afternoon, and as we said our goodbyes at the elevator, I recall wishing that I could wear her hijab.

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Many of the apartment buildings that line the avenue where I live were built in the early 1950s—some in the late 40s—the post-war period that saw the enormous expansion of Washington as the seat of a new global presence. Some of these were constructed with a great sense of style, castle-like structures with elaborate brickwork and archways with detailed engravings and gargoyles, designed with the intention that America’s capital should match in style its newfound international influence, and shake off its dowdy, sleepy southern character. As the government grew and the city’s population swelled, these buildings would house the newcomers; it was during this period that the city attained its reputation for transience, a place where people came and went with successive political upheavals. (In fact, there has always been a stable, indigenous, largely African American and—to outside observers—largely invisible population that has outlasted these upheavals over many years.) Although some of the apartments up and down the avenue have been retrofitted in the modern way, quite a few retain their post-war character. Strolling past their lighted windows at night, you have a sense of the generations that have come and gone from these places, a street haunted by the ambitions, intrigues and aspirations, achievements and failures and sexual scandals of 12 presidential administrations.

I was drawn to the area by the lively and friendly bookstore in the nearby next neighborhood and its comfortable and inviting café downstairs. I mentioned this to K. as we strolled the avenue that afternoon and she was reminded that her middle-school age daughter was required to read a book that was being stocked in quantity at the store. I seized on an opportunity to do my new friend a favor and offered to pick it up that evening; she could pay me back. She agreed to this arrangement and that evening, after we had parted at the elevator, I bought the book for her. Walking back to the building, I wondered about the propriety of knocking on her apartment door (suppose the husband answered? Or her children?). But she texted me her apartment number and when I knocked on the door, K. answered. It was quiet and dark behind her, and she said almost nothing, but smiled and said thank you and handed me a $20 bill. The book had been $19 and some change, as I had informed her in my text on the way home, and when I asked her if she wanted the balance, she shook her head.

I would see her again in less than a week when, as she promised, she texted me ahead of time, then a few minutes later appeared at my door carrying a tray loaded up with two dishes. There was a dinner size plate of rice and ground meat, and a small bowl of what looked like yogurt.

What can I tell you? It was very simple, but the rice and meat affair was spicy and flavorful in a way I had never quite experienced—peppery and very slightly smoky. I believe the meat was lamb and it was ground quite fine and very tender. It was a modest meal, but I finished it feeling entirely and warmly nourished.

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The summer progressed and I did not see K. again for some time. (When I had returned the washed tray and dishes on which she had brought me meal the few nights previous, I had left them outside her apartment door as she had instructed; the family was not home.)

Slow, laboriously slow, was the progression of my jigsaw puzzle, but it became in time a form of morning meditation, to spend 45 minutes hunched over the table with my coffee, the radio in the background, scanning the pieces and the reproduction of the painting on the box. A jigsaw puzzle of a piece of artwork is a very good way to learn to see—really, really see—the details in a work of art, and it strikes me as a very clever way for an artist to get people to spend far more time studying his or her art than people might normally do under any other conceivable circumstances: divide it up into small pieces, and make people put it back together.

Seeing this way is a lesson in how small details make up a whole, how they play into the larger picture, but not as your own mind might predict. For the longest time it seemed, many days, I searched in vain for a puzzle piece that contained the last small fleck of a man’s purple suit. The man occupies a space at the bottom of the illustration, walking the street with the other fashionable types in Storrings’ imagination. From my own vantage point, with the privilege of being able to see the whole illustration I was striving to (as it were) repair, I imagined that it should be easy to find: the purple color stands out, and I believed that I had used up all of the other pieces that had any trace of that color.

But this puzzle piece continued to elude me, and I learned after a while that this is because that single piece, in isolation, when I found it would not look like the piece that I envisioned fitting into the whole. The whole, and the small piece of the whole, relate to each other in a way that I, small piece that I am myself, cannot quite apprehend.

So I would go on searching, confident that the piece would in time reveal itself to me as a surprise. Such is the kind of prosaic discipline I wish I had cultivated more generally, earlier, more earnestly in my life, and I admire those who have--even, or perhaps especially, when their pursuits are eccentric or quixotic. There is a man in New York City who has made it his mission to walk every single street on every block of all five boroughs, a distance of something more than 8,000 miles. When the documentary movie, “The World at Your Feet” was made about this gentleman, he had crossed the 6,000-mile mark and he was still going strong. His dedication has not been without a price, for it seems he has forfeited at least one relationship with a woman who really loved him.

Or think of Joseph Grand, a minor character in Camus’ “The Plague.” A good-hearted volunteer in the nearly hopeless effort against the spreading epidemic in Algerian Oran, he has taken upon himself the humble but necessary task of compiling statistics on the dead and dying. In his spare time, Grand is writing a novel, the first sentence of which he insists must be perfect, capturing in cadence and imagery his vision of a woman on horseback, “riding a handsome sorrel mare along the flowery avenues of the Bois de Boulogne.” His new friends Tarrou and Dr. Rieux, the protagonists of Camus’ allegory, join him in their down time between battling plague, helping him perfect the sentence—or trying to, for it seems to be an endeavor without an end, one that will outlive them all. The stoic and clear-eyed Dr. Rieux who narrates the tale, submits that it is Grand, minor figure though he is, who is the story’s real exemplar in the fight against plague, “this insignificant and obscure hero who had to his credit only a little goodness of heart and a seemingly absurd ideal.”

It is the absurdity of the ideal that registers a rebuke to the plague that is time, that invisible but ever busy agitator and fellow traveler who frays the threads of your trousers and socks, wearing holes everywhere in your life, fidgeting with your memories until they are dog-eared and yellowed and you wake up one morning in, say, November, look out the into the brittle cold and see your life as some kind of epic, ancient as a pharaoh.

It is like looking down the wrong end of a telescope; a lot gets crowded into a narrowing space, while seeming further and further away. Imagine a rainy afternoon on, say, a Wednesday, in June, in (let us propose) 1788, a day in a remote countryside of Japan. The sun came up and it went down, although it was hidden all day behind rain clouds. The people who lived there might have been propelled through the day by a sense of fierce urgency—the family needed money, one of the children was sick, the roof of the house needed repair. A thousand miles away, in Paris and other cities of France, a messy revolution was unfolding, and it would be remembered, and it would have an effect and would be written about in books.

Yet something survives from the remote Japanese countryside that could outlast the French Revolution and its consequence. The Yamamoto bonsai tree, first cultivated in the 16th century, survived the atomic blast at Hiroshima and was gifted by the Japanese government in 1976 for the American bicentennial to the United States, where it resides now in the National Botanical Garden, here in my city.

Wandering about the arboretum as I did with a couple of friends one day late in August can relieve you of the sense that you are living in a very insane place. I have seen older artifacts up close—the Western Wall in Jerusalem and other archeological remnants there from the Roman period, and earlier. But these were stone and the Yamamoto bonsai tree is alive. The tree bears witness to that rainy Wednesday and a thousand, thousand, thousand other vanished days. Bonsai encompass the Japanese knack for miniature (although the tree on display in the Arboretum is now on the scale of a sizeable garden tree) and for the quiet, patient, practice of a small, simple thing. How many generations devoted their days to the tending of roots and soil, branches and leaves for four hundred years, day after day after day?

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For several years now I have fancied that I could feel the tipping of the earth from summer into fall, some subtle change in the air even in the midst of an August heat wave. Perhaps it is just the sublimated awareness of the routine signals of summer’s end—back-to-school sales and the like. In any case, it is a transition I have come to love: September through Christmas is my favorite time of year.

It was early in September when I took a long weekend get-a-way to the eastern shore. On the way back I stopped at one of the fruit stands that dot the rural landscape on route 404 and bought some blueberries and chocolate. At home, I texted K.—it would be our last communication—to tell her I wanted to bring her something in return for the fine dinner she had made me weeks before.

I had continued to marvel about my encounter with her and shared the story of my walk down the avenue and the modest dinner she brought me, with several friends. By text I ran it past my daughter to ask her what she made of it. She responded in the coded diction of her time: “IDK. Maybe she’s just being friendly. B friendly back. UR good at that.”

The night I returned home, back at our building, I knocked on her door. As before, the apartment behind her was dark when she opened the door, but now I had the distinct impression that I had interrupted something implicating the entire family behind her in silence. And K. was now dressed from head to foot in a burka so that only the narrow space of her eyes was unclothed. The burka was not black, however, as I had supposed one to be, but a vivid and penetrating midnight blue—think, perhaps, of the blue of Marc Chagall’s stain glass windows—and it was decorated with something like small stars.

Wordlessly, she accepted the blueberries and chocolate. Only her eyes and the merest upward curve of her lips telegraphed across what seemed an unbreachable no-man’s land of culture and belief and politics her gratitude. There was then a moment of silence between us, a moment of mingled awkwardness and attentiveness as I stood outside her door in the hushed and empty hallway. “Wow,” I finally managed to say, in my stunned American guy-ness, “your dress is really beautiful.”

With an almost imperceptible nod of her head, K. seemed to absorb this compliment and fold it back into the darkness behind her. And then, very gently, she closed the door.

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After leaving the D.C. area in 1997, I spent two years in Chicago, where my daughter was born, then 16 years in Cleveland being a father in a fractured family situation, and working from home, before moving back once again to the DC area, landing first in nearby Virginia. Shortly after our separation, when Tess was four, I had a vivid dream: she and I were walking hand-in-hand through the charred remains of what looked like 9/11 ground zero (this was in fact just a year-and-a-half after the event, and it was still fresh to everyone). What I remember most potently from the dream was this: If not exactly happy, I was hopeful. We would survive, it would be okay.

A knack for chaos. We made it work, and I took to fatherhood, imposing as it did a regimen of dutifulness and order on my otherwise disorderly life. When my daughter went off to college, I returned to the capital where my job was located: I would be a commuter again and sit at a desk. Driving a Uhaul with one apartment room’s worth of life, I stopped at a motel in Breezewood for the night with the idea that I would avoid driving into Washington traffic at rush hour, take my time in the morning and plan to arrive mid-day the next day. The motel housed a little bar and grill, and when I stopped in there were two boys in their 20s drinking at the bar; they were still at that place where they were endearingly drunk and not yet obnoxiously so. I took a seat and ordered something. The one fellow nodded my way, “How’s it going Pops?”

I said it was going fine. The barmaid gave him a look, though, like that wasn’t cool, calling the nice, polite fellow “Pops.” By way of explanation, the boy said, “He’s old school.” His buddy, wanting to be supportive, wanting to be a bro, chimed in, “His hair is white.”

It’s nothing to me, my hair having turned white, to be Pops from the old school, if that’s the way it is now. I had a lot of big ideas on that U-haul journey from Cleveland to the D.C. area, about the new chapter I would write in my life, a bright and shiny life in the city. But I find myself feeling since then as if I am living in the aftermath of an extended encounter with something larger than I knew, a gift more lavish than I had appreciated; as if I am peering down the wrong end of my own telescope at an epic story, now steadily receding, of days and days and days—inspired or insipid or thoroughly mundane, nothing special, the usual fare of parenthood: piano recitals, school talent shows, visits to the doctor, tennis lessons, long drives across Ohio and Michigan and Indiana for summer tennis tournaments, staying in hotels with teams of girls’ softball and volleyball teams traversing the Midwest; arguments; worrying about where she was at night once she had a driver’s license and access to a car (every teenager’s ticket to freedom from the clutches of their keepers); or the time when she was 13 and we took the train from D.C., where we were visiting my brother, to New York to see Billy Elliott on Broadway. We walked all over Manhattan and ate at Applebee’s in Times Square, an experience that must be akin to eating cardboard in a wind tunnel.

And the day of her baptism in a gothic northside Chicago Catholic church when Tess was not much more than two months old. It was an occasion I approached dutifully—let’s get this over with—but with no great feeling for the sacrament itself. Yet standing at the altar with the other parents and their babies beneath the fractured light of the church, with Tess cradled in my arm where she fit between the crook of my elbow and the palm of one hand, as the priests circulated, rubbing the fennel-scented chrism on the babies’ foreheads, a scent that mingled with the musk of incense—there at the altar as I gazed at the child on my arm, I began in spite of myself to weep without restraint.

I have seen K. only a handful of times in passing since the night I brought the blueberries to her door, and once in the lobby of our building she said something about going walking again. But I sensed she was being polite, and I have never heard from her. Well, she’s as busy as the rest of us, with kids and a job and a home to keep. Maybe she was just being friendly. Maybe her diplomatic mission was complete, having extended some middle eastern hospitality and disabused one American man of his preconceptions about an Arab woman in a hijab.

It was nearly October before I finished my puzzle only to find that three pieces had gone lost—missing from the box to begin with or, more likely, disappeared somewhere in my apartment or vanished in the vacuum cleaner.

Perhaps I’ll join the laughing group. I like to laugh, and my daughter has told me on more than one occasion I should smile more. She’s right, the world has been far too kind to me not to. Although the future she is inheriting terrifies me, the pensive mien I carry about is mainly a baked-in affectation, borne of a lifelong dread of seeming silly or frivolous, coupled with an authentic observational instinct. When I was a small boy and my parents would have guests to the house, I used to perch at the top of the steps overlooking our living room and just watch the grown-ups who might be there, watching and listening; a grandmother, then in her dotage, confided to my father that I “made her nervous,” the way I was always just watching, watching.

I am still on the lookout, although for what exactly I can’t say. Perhaps I’ll know when I see it. A bonsai tree bears witness to an epic. The puzzle piece you hold in your fingers, the present moment, that puzzle piece so troublesome and un-conforming to any visible larger purpose, must sooner or later find its place in a picture that you can only barely imagine.

Monday, December 16, 2019

A Fine Fragile Thing Shattered: War and Pieces at Hillwood Estate


Marjorie Merriweather Post’s Hillwood Estate Museum is a lot of things, but one thing I never thought of it as is a shrine to postmodern conceptual art. So I wasn’t quite sure what to make of it when I encountered Bouke De Vries’ art “installation,” War and Pieces, on the grand table of Marjorie’s sumptuous upstairs dining room at the Hillwood Estate.
   My daughter, home from college for Thanksgiving, and I came across it as a curious surprise, entirely unaware of its presence in the museum: a great spread of shattered white porcelain shards, clustering toward the center of the table and rising in a shape that I did not quite recognize at first: the mushroom cloud of an atomic explosion.
   As the Hillwood Estate website explains, this is not the first time the dining room table has hosted a contemporary interpretation of classical table centerpieces. “In the seventeenth century, wealthy households decorated their tables with extravagant sugar sculptures that replicated allegorical scenes, architectural follies, or classical figures,” according to the website. “By the eighteenth century, artists augmented or replaced the decorations with porcelain…”
   de Vries’ War and Pieces comprises seven sculptural vignettes, created in both sugar and porcelain. Say the curators at Hillwood: “Besides war, chaos, and aggression, the installation also features humor and beauty, undermining classical symbols in a satirical and critical way.”
   In fact, the scene on the table registered at first with my daughter and me as whimsical, and my initial instinct was a contemporary one: take a picture of the porcelain chaos on my phone and post it to my Facebook page with a note that I’d hosted a dinner party at my small, cozy apartment the night before, when some of my more rogue friends crashed the affair, drank up all the wine, and got out of hand.
   Ha. Ha.
   But the presentation stayed with me, as a compelling work of art will do. My interest and curiosity was piqued especially by the kind of statement such an insistently ironic or “provocative” work of art might be making in the mansion home of a wealthy mid-century socialite with a grand sense of style and a classical aesthetic sensibility.
   War and Pieces is, first of all, visually appealing, all that porcelain and sugar like a snowfall of perfect white across the table. There is such a thing as “elegant chaos,” and something there is in the human soul that loves to see a fine, fragile thing shattered. War and Pieces appeals to that instinct. To be reminded of it when you are in a place that also houses a “breakfast room” with a chandelier from Catherine the Great, Faberge eggs from the Romanov family, and an 18th-century French rolltop desk inlaid with mother-of-pearl—well, it creates a special kind of resonance.
   As a museum-going experience, The Hillwood Estate “works” not because it is a showcase of vast wealth, but because it is a repository of civilization, of a civilized sensibility. Mere wealth is easily (one might say, cheaply) counterfeited, as is evident, say, in the home of a rich man who fills his rooms with a lot of gilded junk. But Marjorie Post’s home is more than a rich woman’s house. The home is reflective of a distinctly mid-20th century American appreciation of civilization at a time when the country was at its most expansive and confident: the collection at Hillwood speaks to a receptiveness to the artistic, architectural and design influences—English, French, German, Russian and Asian—that have shaped the American sensibility. To fill one’s home with such treasures and then to turn it over to the public as a museum also strikes me as deriving from a uniquely American instinct for the democratic.
   It’s been said that men and women are biological facts (or, maybe, social constructs as the young might instruct us today), but ladies and gentlemen are artifacts of civilization. What Marjorie was, most certainly, and what her museum home attests to, is a lady in the classical sense. But if what we deem to be civilized behavior is a set of learned habits, suggested and enforced by society, then they are not innate or assured, and they can be unlearned; if all the norms by which ladies and gentlemen assert civility are mere artifacts, then they can shattered, and it need not happen in one cataclysmic event, but one by one, before you are quite aware it is happening, every small act of subversion begetting another. It is a little like that “broken windows” philosophy of crime control: one shattered norm makes it easier to shatter another one, then another, and before you know it the whole neighborhood has gone to seed. The once unthinkable becomes a reality.
   To experience the house and gardens at Hillwood engenders the same feeling as does a great work of art, an expertly crafted book, movie or piece of entertainment, or an exceptional athletic performance (such as, for instance, the entire October championship run of our Washington Nationals): It is good to be alive. The human cause is not hopeless.
   Not hopeless, but not assured either. At an auspicious moment in American history, Bouke de Vries has crashed the party at Hillwood like a rogue guest to remind us about that something there is in the human soul that wants to see a fine thing destroyed, and to tell us redundantly (since history, if we were paying attention, would never let us forget it) that it is all much more fragile than we may allow ourselves to acknowledge.